The making of Live Role Play swords begins with a stage called "batting up". The first thing is to know what the weapon will look like and how big it is going to be. For instance we decide that we are going to make a double-edged broadsword with an overall length (blade and handle combined) of 32 inches (813mm).
For this size of sword a core of 10mm diameter will be required and foam of the same thickness< Cut the fibreglass core 4" (100mm) shorter than the finished length ie 28" (700mm), round one end of the core with a suitable abrasive say about 80 grade, this will remove any sharp edges and help to prevent the core cutting its way out of the weapon during use, and rub down the whole length of the core to remove any glossy finish and improve adhesion to the foam. Once rubbed down, all dust should be removed from the core and it should then be rubbed down with Acetone, again this will help adhesion to the foam. Now a small piece of foam the same diameter as the core should be hot-glued to the rounded end and the end wrapped tightly in cloth tape, this forms a protective "pod" which will prevent any injury should the core ever part company with the foam.
Next a piece of 10mm plastazote approximately 6" shorter than the finished sword and about 6" wide is required. Rub down both sides of this piece with 80-grade abrasive, this breaks open the cell structure and improves adhesion. Cut a slot in the foam the width of the core (10mm) running down its length starting about 2" (50mm) from one end and running centrally. Into the slot glue the podded core with hot melt glue.
Lay this assembly on a flat surface and cover liberally with Evo-Stik 613 allowing glue to fill any air gaps between the core and the foam, remove all excess glue from the surface and allow to dry. When dry stick a piece of cloth tape centrally down the entire length of the core and cover with Evo-Stik, again remove excess and allow to dry. When dry stick a small piece of cloth tape 2"(5Omm) square diagonally over the end of the fibreglass core (not the pod) this acts as an extra reinforcing layer to help prevent the core from coming out of the weapon. Leave on a flat surface to dry overnight. When completely dry turn over and repeat the process of gluing and taping on the other side and leave to dry on a flat surface overnight. When completely dry cut another piece of 1Omm foam to the same size and rub down one side with 80 Grade abrasive, cover this side and one side of the prepared core with a thin film of Evo-Stik and leave until touch dry, this should take about 15 Mins. When touch dry stick both pieces together to form something that resembles a cricket bat (hence batting) place the bat on a clean dry surface and with a clean shoe or boot stamp hard all over (this will assist the bonding of the two layers) leave to dry for an hour or so and then with the exposed core upmost draw the shape of your sword blade making sure that at this stage the line does not come within 2Omm of the core at any point. When you are happy with the blade shape cut it out using a sharp craft knife.
With the blade shape cut out you can now take another piece of lOmm foam, rub it down on one side and Evo-Stik it to the other side of the core and stamp it down hard. Now leave to dry overnight.
Now comes the tricky bit! When the sword has dried completely mark out lightly on both sides of the blade where the bevelled edge of the blade will come to (the sharpened edge of the sword) and with a very sharp blade and a steady hand cut the bevel in one go, do not try to recut the edge as this will leave a ridge in the blade.
With the bevel successfully cut you are now ready to make the cross guard. This can take many different forms and together with the pommel will make your sword unique. Guards can be made simply by gluing a disc of Plastazote to the base of the sword, or a large rectangular guard made from several layers glued together or if you are particularly adventurous a basket hilt could be formed but this takes quite a few hours in itself. Once the guard is in place the handle can be made either from wrapping foam around the core or by adding a piece of fibreglass tube to the end of the core. If the tube is the chosen method then glue it in place and then drill through and hit a small panel pin through both the tube and the original core to secure it in place. Now repeat the rubbing down and podding process on the handle, once a layer of cloth tape has been wrapped around the pod then a further wrap of Plastazote can be added to form a basic pommel on the sword. Further foam embellishments can be added to make a very decorative pommel if required. As with the guard the pommel can be formed in many different ways including the very simple method of gluing a soft foam ball over the pod.
Further decoration can be added to the sword if required such as cutting a groove down the length of the blade with a sharp scalpel or engraving runes or other symbols into the blade or guard using a minidrill or soldering iron. Cutting small nicks out of the blade can give a well worn antique look to the weapon.
Now that the sword design is finished the coating of rubber can be applied, the first job is to attach a small loop to handle of the sword to allow it to be hung up whilst drying, this can be made simply by taping an offcut of foam to the handle. Now a first coat of Evo-Stik Safe 80 is brushed onto the weapon with a moistened paintbrush, a thin even coat is applied to the whole weapon leaving enough of the handle to hold whilst working. The sword is then hung up in a warm area to dry, at room temperature this will take about an hour but things can be speeded up a little with the use of a domestic hair drier. When this first glue coat is dry the first of a series of coats of Latex can be applied. Using a clean paintbrush carefully coat the foam surfaces with black Latex making sure that all exposed foam is covered but be careful not to put so much on that fine detail is lost or that latex runs down the weapon. Lots of thin coats are the secret to acheiving a realistic finish After each thin coat has been applied hang the sword tip to dry in a warm place, again each coat shiould dry in about an hour. A 32" sword should require about 10 coats of black Latex. When this has been acheived and you are pleased with the overall look of the sword then 4 or 5 coats of metallic pigmented Latex should be applied. When these are completely dry then the final detailing can be applied to the sword, any fine detail such as rivets or gemstones can be painted with a special mixture of flexible paints after which the sword is ready for airbrushing the edges of detail and any areas that would be worn or in shadow can be sprayed with a very fine layer of black enamel to give a lifelike appearance. Once this layer is dried then a final coat of special flexible lacquer is applied to the sword to give a protective glossy finish. This lacquer is applied in three very thin coats taking 8 hours each to dry. When dry, a fine coat of WD4O is applied to the weapon to remove any tackiness and to prevent weapons from sticking together.
Your sword is now ready to have its handle finished, a piece of suitably coloured leather or cloth glued to the fibreglass tube will add the finishing touch. If you want to be a bit more techinical then a second wrap of contrasting leather with holes punched for laces can be wrapped and then laced with thong for a medieval look.
The finished weapon will be safe for use in stage fighting and Live Role Playing if these instructions are adhered to and no shortcuts are taken, a few basic rules for use will greatly increase the weapons safe life:
If you have any queries regarding weapons, materials or live role play then do not hesitate to call Skian Mhor. All materials used during workshops are available for purchase either from the workshop during normal working hours or by mail order by writing to;
